Aghroum (Kabyle semolina flatbread)

Step 1: Mix 1 ⅛ lb fine semolina and 1 ½ tsp salt in a wide bowl. Rub 3 tbsp olive oil into the grain with your fingertips for a minute until it feels like damp sand.

Step 2: Add 1 ¼ cups warm water a little at a time, working it in with your hand, until the semolina comes together into a soft but not sticky dough.

Step 3: Knead on the worktop for 8 minutes, pushing the dough away with the heel of your hand and folding it back, until it is smooth and supple. Semolina dough feels rough at first and softens as the grains absorb the water.

Step 4: Cover with a cloth and rest for 15 minutes so the semolina finishes drinking up the water and the dough relaxes.

Step 5: Divide into 2 pieces. Dust the worktop with 2 tbsp fine semolina and pat each piece with oiled palms into a round about 22 cm across and 1 cm thick. Prick the tops all over with a fork.

Step 6: Heat a heavy griddle or cast-iron pan over a medium-low heat for 3 minutes. Lay in one bread and cook for 2 minutes, then turn it and keep turning every 2 minutes, rotating it on the pan, until both sides are golden with brown freckles and the bread sounds hollow when tapped, about 12 minutes in all.

Step 7: Stand the bread on its edge and roll it round the hot pan for a minute to colour the rim. Wrap in a clean cloth while you cook the second one, so the crust softens slightly.