Anarsa

Step 1: Wash 7 oz raw short-grain rice and soak it in plenty of water for 3 days, changing the water once a day so it stays fresh-smelling. The grains should crush to powder between your fingers.

Step 2: Drain and spread the rice on a clean cloth in the shade for 30–45 minutes until it feels just damp, not wet. Grind to a fine flour and sift; regrind the coarse bits.

Step 3: Mix the damp flour with 4 oz jaggery and 1 tbsp ghee and knead for 3–4 minutes into a firm, smooth dough. Cover tightly and leave overnight at room temperature so the flavours meld and the dough firms up.

Step 4: Next day, knead again. Pinch off 18 lime-sized balls. Spread 4 tbsp white sesame seeds on a plate, press each ball into it and flatten into a 5–6 cm disc with seeds on one side.

Step 5: Heat 2 cups ghee or vegetable oil in a kadai on medium-low (about 325°F). Fry a test disc sesame-side up. If it melts and spreads, knead 1 tbsp rice flour into the dough; that is the most common problem and it comes from rice ground too wet.

Step 6: Fry 3–4 at a time, sesame side up, without turning. Spoon hot ghee over the tops for 3–4 minutes until the centres puff into a lacy honeycomb and the bottoms are golden.

Step 7: Lift out and stand them on their edge in a sieve for a few minutes to drain. Cool before serving; they keep for a week in a tin.