Arroz con gandules

Step 1: Warm 3 tbsp vegetable oil and 1 tbsp annatto (achiote) seeds in a heavy, wide pot (a caldero is ideal) over a low heat for 3–4 minutes, until the oil turns deep orange-red. Lift out the seeds with a slotted spoon and discard them.

Step 2: Turn the heat to medium. Add ½ cup Puerto Rican sofrito and cook, stirring, for 4–5 minutes, until the raw onion-garlic smell softens and it turns jammy.

Step 3: Stir in ½ cup tomato sauce (passata), 12 pimento-stuffed green olives, 1 tbsp capers, 1 tsp ground cumin, 1 tsp dried oregano and 1 bay leaf. Simmer for 3 minutes until slightly darker and thick.

Step 4: Add 15 oz tinned pigeon peas (gandules) and 14 oz medium-grain rice and stir for 2 minutes so every grain is coated and turns orange.

Step 5: Pour in 3 ¼ cups hot vegetable stock and 1 ½ tsp salt, stir once and bring to a lively boil over a high heat. Let it bubble uncovered, without stirring, until the liquid has dropped to just level with the rice and small craters appear on the surface, about 8 minutes.

Step 6: Give the rice a single gentle turn from the bottom up, so the top grains move down. Lay 1 banana leaf over the rice if using, cover tightly with the lid and turn the heat to low.

Step 7: Cook for 20–25 minutes without lifting the lid. The rice is ready when the grains are tender and the pot smells toasty. A common mistake is to keep stirring or peeking: the steam escapes, the top stays hard and the bottom goes gummy.

Step 8: For a good pegao, turn the heat up to medium for the last 3–4 minutes; you'll hear a gentle crackle as the bottom crisps. Rest off the heat for 5 minutes, remove the bay leaf, fluff with a fork and scatter with 2 tbsp chopped cilantro. Scrape up the crisp pegao and share it out.