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Ayam betutu
Ayam betutu — Balinese chicken braised slowly in base genep spice paste
Drive through west Bali to the ferry port of Gilimanuk and the roadside warungs all sell the same thing: ayam betutu, chicken cooked so long in spice paste that it slumps off the bone into a fiery, turmeric-orange gravy. The paste is base genep, Bali's master seasoning of shallots, garlic, galangal, aromatic ginger, turmeric, chillies, candlenuts and shrimp paste, and it is rubbed inside and out before the bird braises gently in a covered pot. Expect deep heat, a little bitterness from the greens tucked inside and a rich, almost buttery sauce. Pile it on steamed rice with water spinach or a raw sambal matah to cut through. Chef's tip: braise it the day before; the paste mellows overnight and the chicken reheats beautifully.
- Total time
- 180 min
- Difficulty
- hard
- Serves
- 6
Ingredients
For the base genep paste
For the chicken
To serve
Method
0/10 doneStep 1: Wrap 1 tsp shrimp paste in a small square of foil and toast it in a dry pan over a medium heat for 2 minutes each side until it smells strongly and crumbles. Open a window.
4 minStep 2: Blend 10 shallots, 8 cloves garlic, 6 large red chillies, 5 bird's eye chillies, 1 ⅝ in galangal, 1 ⅛ in kencur (aromatic ginger), 2 in fresh turmeric, 1 ⅝ in fresh ginger, 5 candlenuts, 1 tbsp coriander seeds, 1 tsp black peppercorns, 2 stalks lemongrass and the toasted shrimp paste to a coarse paste with 2 tbsp coconut oil.
4 minStep 3: Heat 2 tbsp coconut oil in a heavy pot over a medium-low heat and fry the paste for 10–12 minutes, stirring often, with 1 tbsp palm sugar and 2 tsp salt, until it turns a deeper orange and the oil splits out. The most common mistake is stopping early: underfried paste tastes harshly of raw shallot and galangal.
12 minStep 4: Tip the paste into a bowl and let it cool. Wipe out the pot; you'll braise in it later.
10 minStep 5: Pat 3 ⅛ lb whole chicken dry inside and out on a board kept for raw meat. Mix 7 oz cassava leaves with a quarter of the paste and stuff it into the cavity. Rub most of the rest all over the outside and under the skin, keeping 3 tbsp back for the sauce. Tie the legs together.
10 minStep 6: Cover and marinate in the fridge for at least 30 minutes, or overnight if you can. Wash your hands, board and knife.
Step 7: Put the chicken breast-side up in the pot with 5 makrut lime leaves, 2 stalks lemongrass, the reserved paste and 1 ¾ cups water. Bring to a simmer over a medium heat, then cover tightly and turn the heat to its lowest.
5 minStep 8: Braise for 1 hour 45 minutes, turning the bird halfway and spooning the sauce over. Add a splash of water if the base threatens to catch. It's ready when a leg pulls away easily and the thickest part of the thigh reads at least 165°F (165 °F) with clear juices.
105 minStep 9: Lift the chicken onto a board and rest it for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, boil the sauce uncovered over a medium-high heat for 8–10 minutes until thick enough to coat a spoon. Stir in 1 tbsp lime juice and taste for salt.
10 minStep 10: Pull the chicken into large pieces with the stuffing alongside, pour over the sauce and serve with 6 portions steamed jasmine rice and 6 tbsp sambal matah.
Nutrition per serving
- Calories
- 520 kcal
- Protein
- 42 g
- Carbs
- 14 g
- Fat
- 33 g
- Fibre
- 4 g
Nutrition values are estimates.
KrazyBadal
Good to know
- How long does ayam betutu take?
- About 180 minutes in total: 45 minutes to prepare and 135 minutes to cook.
- How many people does it serve?
- 6 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
- Is it gluten free?
- Yes, as written. Check the labels on stock, sauces and spice mixes, which sometimes contain gluten.
- Is it very spicy?
- It has some heat. Use less chilli for a milder version, or more if you like it hot.
- What can I use instead of shallots?
- Half an onion per 2 shallots.
- What can I use instead of garlic?
- ½ tsp garlic paste or ⅛ tsp garlic powder per clove.
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