Babbouche

Step 1: Tip 2 ¼ lb live small land snails into a large bowl of cold water. Throw away any with cracked or broken shells, any that float and any that stay shut tight and smell bad. Healthy snails come out and move after a few minutes in the water.

Step 2: Sprinkle with 2 tbsp coarse salt and ¼ cup white vinegar, rub them together with your hands for 2 minutes and rinse. Repeat the wash in fresh water 3 or 4 times, until the water is clear and no longer foamy.

Step 3: Put the snails in a large pot of cold water, bring slowly to the boil over a medium heat and boil for 10 minutes. Starting cold makes the snails come out of their shells, so they are easy to pick later. Drain and discard this water.

Step 4: Tie ½ oz dried liquorice root, 1 tbsp aniseed, 1 tsp caraway seeds, 2 tbsp dried thyme, 2 tbsp dried bitter orange peel, 1 tsp black peppercorns, 3 small dried chillies, 3 bay leaves and 1 tsp gum arabic crystals in a muslin bag.

Step 5: Return the snails to the pot with 12 ½ cups water, 2 tsp salt and the spice bag. Bring to the boil, then simmer over a low heat for 45 minutes, skimming any foam, until the snails are tender and the broth is dark and aromatic.

Step 6: Add 1 bunch fresh mint and 1 tsp dried wormwood (chiba) for the last 5 minutes, then lift out the herbs and spice bag. A common mistake is leaving the mint and wormwood in too long; they turn the broth bitter.

Step 7: Taste for salt. Serve the snails and broth in small bowls with toothpicks to pick out the meat; any snails that are still sealed shut after cooking should be discarded.