Bak chor mee

Step 1: Squeeze the soaked 6 dried shiitake mushrooms, keeping the soaking water, and trim off the stalks. Simmer the caps in a small pan with 150 ml of the strained soaking water, 1 tsp dark soy sauce and 2 tsp sugar over a low heat until glossy and almost dry. Slice thinly.

Step 2: Mix 7 oz minced pork with half of 2 tsp light soy sauce, ½ tsp ground white pepper, 1 tsp cornflour and 2 tablespoons of water until slightly sticky. Cover and keep in the fridge until needed.

Step 3: Bring 3 ¾ cups pork stock to a gentle simmer in a medium pot and add 8 fish balls. Simmer for 5 minutes, until they swell and float.

Step 4: Drop small, loose clumps of the pork into the simmering stock and poach for 3–4 minutes, breaking them up with chopsticks, until no pink remains and the pork reaches 160°F. Lift out with a slotted spoon.

Step 5: Slide 4 oz pork liver into the same stock and poach for 2–3 minutes, until firm with no pink in the centre (160°F). It turns rubbery if left longer, so lift it out as soon as it is cooked through.

Step 6: Skim the stock, season it with a little salt and keep it hot on the lowest heat for serving.

Step 7: Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Blanch 3 ½ oz choy sum or lettuce for 30 seconds, then lift out and drain.

Step 8: Divide 4 tsp Chinese black vinegar, 2 tbsp chilli paste, the rest of 2 tsp light soy sauce, 2 tbsp pork lard and 1 tsp tomato ketchup between two wide bowls and stir each into a dark, glossy paste.

Step 9: Put half of 10 ½ oz fresh mee pok (flat egg noodles) in a noodle strainer or sieve and plunge it into the boiling water for 30 seconds, shaking to separate the strands. Dip it into a bowl of cold water for 5 seconds, then back into the boiling water for 20 seconds more. Shake off as much water as you can.

Step 10: Tip the noodles straight into one bowl and toss hard with chopsticks for 20 seconds until every strand is coated and reddish brown. Repeat with the rest of the noodles for the second bowl.

Step 11: Top each bowl with the poached pork, liver, fish balls, mushrooms and greens. Scatter with 2 tbsp fried shallots, 1 spring onion and 1 tbsp fried dried sole flakes.

Step 12: Ladle the hot stock into small bowls and serve alongside. Taste the noodles and add more vinegar if you like them sharper, as many regulars do.