Banarasi tamatar chaat

Step 1: Boil the 1 ¾ oz sugar and 3 ½ tbsp water in a small pan for 2–3 minutes until it is slightly syrupy and coats a spoon. Set aside to cool.

Step 2: Heat the 3 tbsp ghee in a heavy iron or steel pan over medium heat. Add the 1 tsp cumin seeds; when it crackles and darkens a shade, add the ¼ tsp asafoetida (hing), 1 tbsp ginger and 2 green chillies and stir for 30 seconds until fragrant.

Step 3: Add the 1 ⅓ lb very ripe tomatoes, ¼ tsp ground turmeric, ½ tsp red chilli powder and 1 tsp salt. Cook on medium-high, mashing with the back of a ladle, for 8–10 minutes until the tomatoes collapse completely and the ghee starts to separate.

Step 4: Add the 9 oz potatoes and ½ cup water and keep mashing and stirring on medium heat for 5–6 minutes. The chaat is ready when it is thick and glossy, like a loose mash that drops slowly off the spoon.

Step 5: Spoon the hot chaat into small bowls or clay cups. Drizzle each with a spoon of syrup, then sprinkle with 1 tsp roasted cumin powder, ½ tsp black salt (kala namak) and 1 tsp chaat masala.

Step 6: Top with a generous handful of 1 ⅜ oz fine sev, the ⅓ oz fresh coriander and the 1 red onion if using, and serve at once while the sev is still crisp.