Bhorta platter (aloo, begun and dal bhorta)

Step 1: Aloo bhorta: boil 14 oz potatoes in salted water for 15–18 minutes until a knife meets no resistance. Drain and let them steam dry.

Step 2: Meanwhile, toast 4 dried red chillies in a dry pan over a medium heat for 1–2 minutes, until they darken and smell smoky but are not black. Crumble them into a bowl with ½ red onion, 2 tbsp mustard oil and ¾ tsp salt and rub together with your fingers.

Step 3: Add the warm potatoes and mash everything by hand until mostly smooth with a few soft lumps. Shape into a mound.

Step 4: Begun bhorta: hold 1 large aubergine over a gas flame with tongs (or under a very hot grill), turning, for 10–12 minutes until the skin is blackened and blistered all over and the whole thing collapses when pressed.

Step 5: Cool slightly, peel off the burnt skin and chop the smoky flesh. Mash with ½ red onion, 1 garlic clove, 3 green chillies, 1 tomato, 1 ½ tbsp mustard oil, ½ tsp salt and a little of the 0.5 handful fresh coriander. A common mistake is pulling the aubergine off the flame too early; if the centre is firm, the bhorta tastes raw and not smoky.

Step 6: Dal bhorta: cook 5 ½ oz split red lentils (masoor dal) in 350 ml water over a medium heat for 12–15 minutes, until soft and nearly all the water is absorbed. It should be a thick paste, not a soup; cook off any extra liquid.

Step 7: Heat 2 tbsp mustard oil in a small pan over a medium heat and fry 1 onion, 3 garlic cloves and 3 dried red chillies for 5–6 minutes, until the onion and garlic are golden brown and crisp.

Step 8: Crush the fried chillies, then mash the onion mixture and its oil into the dal with ¾ tsp salt until thick enough to shape. Serve the three bhortas side by side, scattered with the rest of the 0.5 handful fresh coriander, with hot rice.