Banh canh cua (crab noodle soup)

Step 1: Peel and devein 10 ½ oz raw prawns, keeping the shells and heads. Put the shells, 6 ¼ cups chicken stock, ⅔ oz dried shrimp and 1 onion in a pan, bring to the boil and simmer for 15 minutes. If you make the broth ahead, cool it within an hour and keep it in the fridge for up to 2 days.

Step 2: Boil 12 quail eggs for 3 minutes, cool in cold water and peel.

Step 3: Warm 3 tbsp vegetable oil with 1 tbsp annatto seeds in a small pan over a low heat for 2–3 minutes until the oil turns deep red. Strain out the seeds.

Step 4: Heat the red oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and fry 3 shallots for 2 minutes until soft. Add 7 oz cooked white crab meat and ½ tsp ground black pepper and fold gently for 1 minute to colour it. Set aside.

Step 5: Strain the broth into a clean pan, season with 2 tbsp fish sauce and 1 tsp sugar and bring back to a simmer. Add the peeled prawns and cook for 2–3 minutes until pink and opaque, then lift them out.

Step 6: Mix 2 tbsp tapioca starch with 4 tbsp cold water. Stir the broth steadily while you pour in the slurry in a thin stream, and simmer for 1 minute until slightly glossy. Common mistake: dumping the slurry in all at once into a hard boil makes lumps; pour slowly and keep stirring.

Step 7: Stir most of the crab into the broth and taste for salt.

Step 8: Loosen 1 ⅓ lb fresh bánh canh noodles or thick udon in boiling water for 1–2 minutes, or as the packet says, and drain.

Step 9: Divide the noodles between deep bowls, add the prawns and quail eggs and ladle the hot broth over. Top with the rest of the crab, 3 spring onions, ½ oz coriander and 3 tbsp crisp fried shallots, and serve with 1 lime and 1 red chilli.