Barbajuans

Step 1: Mix 9 oz plain flour and ½ tsp salt, add 3 tbsp olive oil and 1 egg, then enough ¼ cup water to make a firm dough. Knead for 5 minutes until smooth, cover and rest for 30 minutes.

Step 2: Blanch 14 oz Swiss chard leaves in boiling salted water for 2 minutes, cool under the cold tap, squeeze very dry and chop finely.

Step 3: Fry 1 leek in the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil over a medium heat for 6 minutes, until soft but not browned. Mix with the chard, 5 ½ oz ricotta, 1 ⅜ oz Parmesan, 1 egg yolk, 1 tsp dried marjoram or oregano, ¼ tsp grated nutmeg and ½ tsp black pepper. Taste; it should be well seasoned.

Step 4: Roll the dough out in two batches, as thinly as you can (1–2 mm), or use a pasta machine. Put teaspoons of filling 4 cm apart along one half of the sheet.

Step 5: Fold the sheet over, press around each mound to push out the air, then cut into half-moons or squares and seal the edges with a fork. Common mistake: trapping air inside; the pockets puff up and burst in the hot oil.

Step 6: Heat 4 ¼ cups sunflower oil in a deep pan to 350°F. Fry 6–8 barbajuans at a time for 2–3 minutes, turning once, until golden and blistered.

Step 7: Drain on kitchen paper, sprinkle with a little salt and serve warm. Unfried, they freeze well on a tray; fry from frozen for an extra minute.