Basundi

Step 1: Rinse a wide, heavy-based pan with cold water (it helps stop the milk catching), pour in 6 ¼ cups full-fat milk and bring to a boil over a medium heat, stirring now and then.

Step 2: Turn the heat to low so the milk bubbles gently. Simmer for 60–70 minutes, stirring every few minutes and scraping the bottom. Each time a skin of cream forms on top, push it to the side of the pan, and scrape the cream that dries on the sides back into the milk; these bits give basundi its grainy texture.

Step 3: Common mistake: turning up the heat to save time. Milk scorches on the base in seconds and the burnt taste goes all through it. Stay on a low heat and keep scraping.

Step 4: When the milk has reduced to about a third (around 500 ml), is thick, pale cream and coats the back of a spoon, stir in 3 ⅛ oz sugar. It will loosen a little; simmer for 5 more minutes.

Step 5: Add the 1 pinch saffron strands with its milk, ½ tsp ground cardamom, 1 pinch grated nutmeg, most of the 15 almonds and 15 pistachios, and 1 tbsp charoli (chironji) seeds if using. Cook for 2 minutes, then take off the heat.

Step 6: Cool, then chill for at least 3 hours. It thickens as it cools. Serve cold in small bowls topped with the remaining nuts, on its own or with hot puris.