Bataka sev

Step 1: Grate the cold 14 oz potatoes finely into a bowl.

Step 2: Add 2 ⅛ oz arrowroot powder, 1 tsp green chilli paste, ½ tsp finely crushed black pepper, 1 tsp sendha namak (rock salt) and 1 tsp lemon juice and knead into a smooth, soft dough that does not stick to your palm. Add a spoon more arrowroot if it does.

Step 3: Oil a sev press, fit the fine-holed disc and fill with dough.

Step 4: Pour 4 ¼ cups groundnut oil into a heavy kadai or deep pan, no more than a third of its depth, and heat over medium heat to 165–350°F on a thermometer. No thermometer? Press a few strands in: they should float up slowly with small, even bubbles, not brown at once. Stay at the stove the whole time the oil is hot and keep the handle turned inwards.

Step 5: Press the dough into the oil in small spirals and fry until the bubbles calm and the sev turns crisp and pale golden. Lift out and drain on kitchen paper.

Step 6: Fry the rest in batches, letting the oil recover in between. Cool completely before storing airtight for up to 2 weeks.