Beef bulgogi

Step 1: Mix ¼ Asian pear, ½ onion, 5 tbsp soy sauce, 2 tbsp light brown sugar, 5 cloves garlic, 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil and ½ tsp black pepper in a large bowl. Many cooks also add 2 tbsp of rice wine (mirim), which contains alcohol; it isn't needed here.

Step 2: Add 1 ⅓ lb beef ribeye or sirloin and turn it with your hands so every slice is coated. Leave for 20 minutes at room temperature, or up to 8 hours in the fridge. Don't leave it longer, as the pear will turn the meat mushy.

Step 3: Mix in ½ onion, 1 carrot, 3 ½ oz shiitake or chestnut mushrooms and 3 spring onions.

Step 4: Heat half the 1 tbsp vegetable oil in a large frying pan over a high heat until it shimmers. Lift in half the beef and vegetables, shaking off some of the marinade. Common mistake: tipping in everything at once. The pan cools, the meat stews grey in its juices and never browns; cook in two batches.

Step 5: Spread the meat out and leave for 1 minute to sear, then toss for 2 to 3 minutes more, until the beef is browned with no pink left and the onion is soft.

Step 6: Tip onto a plate and cook the second batch the same way with the rest of the 1 tbsp vegetable oil. Return the first batch, add any leftover marinade and bubble for 1 minute until glossy.

Step 7: Scatter with 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds and serve with 4 bowls cooked short-grain rice and 1 head lettuce leaves for wrapping.