Bhetki paturi

Step 1: Soak 2 tbsp black mustard seeds and 1 tbsp yellow mustard seeds in cold water for 15 minutes, then drain.

Step 2: Meanwhile rub 1 ⅛ lb bhetki (barramundi) fillets with ½ tsp ground turmeric and half the ½ tsp salt and set aside.

Step 3: Grind the soaked mustard with 2 of the 4 green chillies, the remaining ½ tsp salt and 3–4 tbsp cold water to a smooth paste. Common mistake: grinding mustard dry or with warm water for a long time, which turns it bitter; the salt, chilli and cold water keep it sweet and sharp.

Step 4: Add 1 ¾ oz freshly grated coconut and ½ tsp sugar and grind briefly until combined, then stir in 2 tbsp of the 3 tbsp mustard oil.

Step 5: Hold each 2 banana leaves square over a low gas flame for a few seconds until it turns glossy and soft, so it folds without splitting.

Step 6: Coat each piece of fish thickly with the paste, lay it on a leaf, top with a slice of the remaining green chillies and a few drops of the remaining oil, then fold into a neat parcel and tie with 1 kitchen string or toothpicks.

Step 7: Steam the parcels over boiling water for 15 minutes, or cook them in a heavy frying pan brushed with oil over a medium-low heat for 7–8 minutes per side.

Step 8: Open one parcel to check: the fish should be opaque all the way through and flake easily with a fork. Serve the parcels closed and let everyone unwrap their own over rice.