Bhopali gosht korma

Step 1: Toast 3 tbsp desiccated coconut, 1 tbsp white poppy seeds (khus khus) and 1 tbsp coriander seeds in a dry pan over a low heat for 3–4 minutes, stirring, until the coconut is pale gold. Cool, then grind to a paste with 4 tbsp water.

Step 2: Heat 7 tbsp ghee or vegetable oil in a heavy pot over a medium heat and fry 4 onions for 18–20 minutes, stirring more often towards the end, until deep golden-brown. Lift out with a slotted spoon, spread on paper to crisp, then crush roughly with your hands.

Step 3: Reheat the oil over a medium-high heat. Add 5 cloves, 5 green cardamom, 8 black peppercorns and 2 bay leaves and fry for 30 seconds.

Step 4: Add 2 ¼ lb bone-in mutton (goat) or lamb and 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste and fry for 10–12 minutes, turning, until the meat is well browned and the liquid it releases has dried up.

Step 5: Lower the heat to medium, add 1 tbsp Kashmiri chilli powder, ½ tsp hot red chilli powder, ¼ tsp ground turmeric and 1 ½ tsp salt and fry for 1 minute. Then add 9 oz plain yogurt a spoonful at a time, stirring, and cook for 8–10 minutes until the oil separates.

Step 6: Stir in the coconut-poppy paste and two-thirds of the crushed onions and fry for 3 minutes. Common mistake: adding the nut paste too early and leaving it; it sticks and scorches on the bottom of the pot. Stir right across the base.

Step 7: Add 2 cups hot water, bring to a boil, cover and simmer over a low heat for 60–70 minutes, stirring every 15 minutes, until the meat is very tender and the gravy is thick and dark with oil on top.

Step 8: Stir in 1 tsp garam masala and ½ tsp kewra water if using, scatter over the remaining onions and rest for 10 minutes before serving. Like most kormas it's even better the next day; reheat until piping hot.