Birria de res

Step 1: Heat a dry heavy frying pan over a medium heat and toast 8 dried guajillo chillies, 3 dried ancho chillies and 3 dried chiles de árbol a few at a time, pressing them flat for 10–15 seconds a side, until they smell fragrant and turn a shade darker. Don't let them blacken or smoke: burnt chillies are the most common reason birria tastes bitter.

Step 2: Put the toasted chillies in a bowl, cover with just-boiled water and leave to soften until pliable.

Step 3: Meanwhile char 2 ripe tomatoes, 1 white onion and 6 cloves garlic in the same pan over a medium-high heat, turning, until blistered in patches; the garlic needs only 3–4 minutes.

Step 4: Toast 1 tsp cumin seeds, 4 whole cloves, 1 tsp black peppercorns and 1 cinnamon stick in the pan for 1 minute, until fragrant.

Step 5: Drain the chillies and put them in a blender with the charred vegetables, toasted spices, ¼ cup cider vinegar, 2 tsp dried Mexican oregano, 1 tsp dried thyme, 1 tbsp salt and about 250 ml of fresh water from 1 ¼ cups water. Blend until completely smooth, then push through a sieve.

Step 6: Put 2 ⅝ lb boneless beef chuck and 1 ¾ lb beef short ribs or shank on the bone in a large bowl or lidded container, pour over the chilli paste and turn until every piece is coated. Cover and marinate in the fridge for at least 4 hours, ideally overnight.

Step 7: Tip the beef and every scrap of marinade into a large heavy pot or casserole. Add the rest of 7 cups water and 3 bay leaves; the meat should be just covered. Bring to the boil, skim off any grey foam, then cover and simmer over a low heat.

Step 8: Simmer gently, stirring now and then, until the beef is fork-tender and falls apart when pressed and the bones slide out of the ribs. Top up with a little hot water if the meat is no longer covered.

Step 9: Lift out the meat, discard the bones and bay leaves, and shred it with two forks. Skim the red fat from the surface of the broth into a small bowl and keep it. Taste the consommé and season with salt; it should be rich, deep red and peppery.

Step 10: To make tacos, heat a frying pan or griddle over a medium heat. Dip each of 18 corn tortillas into the reserved red fat (or the top of the consommé), lay it in the pan, add a little shredded beef and a pinch of 7 oz Oaxaca cheese or mild melting cheese if using, fold and fry until crisp and spotted dark red on both sides, about 2 minutes a side.

Step 11: Serve the tacos with small cups of hot consommé for dipping, or put the beef in bowls and ladle the consommé over. Scatter with 1 white onion, 1 bunch fresh coriander and squeeze over 3 limes.