Laphing

Step 1: Mix 1 ⅛ lb plain flour with 1 cup water and knead for 5 minutes into a firm dough. Cover and rest for 20 minutes.

Step 2: Put the dough in a large bowl with a third of 6 ¼ cups cold water and squeeze and knead it under the water until the water turns thick and milky. Pour the milky water through a sieve into another bowl and repeat twice with the rest of the water, until what is left in your hand is a small, stretchy ball of gluten.

Step 3: Leave the starch water to settle for 2 hours, until a thick white layer has sunk to the bottom. Carefully pour off the clear water on top and keep the starch. Steam the gluten ball on an oiled plate for 15 minutes until spongy, then cool and cut into strips.

Step 4: Stir 1 pinch ground turmeric, if using, and ½ tsp salt into the starch until smooth, like thin cream. Bring a steamer to a strong boil.

Step 5: Brush a heatproof plate with 2 tbsp vegetable oil, pour in a thin layer of starch (about 4 tablespoons, 2–3 mm deep) and steam for 3–4 minutes, until clear, set and bubbled. Common mistake: pouring a thick layer; it turns rubbery and won't roll.

Step 6: Cool the plate in a tray of cold water for a minute, then peel the sheet off and lay it on an oiled tray. Repeat with the rest, brushing each sheet with oil so they don't stick.

Step 7: For the chilli oil, put 3 tbsp red chilli flakes and ¼ tsp ground Sichuan pepper (timur) in a heatproof bowl. Heat 6 tbsp vegetable oil until shimmering and pour it over; it will sizzle. Leave to cool.

Step 8: Pound 4 cloves garlic with 4 tbsp water to make garlic water. Mix with 2 tbsp soy sauce and 1 tbsp rice or black vinegar.

Step 9: Spread a sheet with a little chilli oil and sauce, lay a few gluten strips along one edge and roll up. Cut into 3 cm pieces, pile into bowls, spoon over more sauce and chilli oil, and scatter with 2 spring onions. Serve cold.