Bucatini all'amatriciana

Step 1: Put a large pot of water on to boil and add 1 tbsp salt.

Step 2: Warm 1 tbsp olive oil in a wide frying pan over a medium heat, add 5 ½ oz guanciale and fry, stirring, until the fat runs and the edges turn golden brown.

Step 3: Lift the guanciale out with a slotted spoon and set it aside, leaving the fat in the pan. Stir ½ tsp dried chilli flakes into the fat for 20 seconds.

Step 4: Pour in ¼ cup dry white wine and let it bubble over a medium-high heat until the smell of alcohol has gone and it has nearly evaporated.

Step 5: Add 14 oz tinned whole peeled tomatoes with any juice and simmer over a medium heat, stirring now and then, until the sauce thickens and the fat starts to pool glossy-red at the edges. Taste and add a pinch of salt only if it needs it.

Step 6: Meanwhile cook 14 oz bucatini in the boiling water until just al dente; bucatini are thick and usually take 10–11 minutes. Keep a mug of the cooking water.

Step 7: Drain the pasta into the sauce, return the guanciale and toss over a medium heat for 1 minute with a splash of pasta water, until the sauce clings and slips into the hollow centres.

Step 8: Off the heat, toss in two-thirds of 1 ½ oz pecorino romano. Serve with the rest of ⅝ oz pecorino romano at the table.