Bún ốc

Step 1: Put 1 ⅛ lb pork bones in a pan of cold water, bring to the boil for 3 minutes, then drain and rinse. Return to the pan with 8 ¼ cups water and simmer gently for 45 minutes, skimming, to make a light stock. Strain.

Step 2: Rinse the thawed 10 ½ oz cooked snail meat (frozen) in cold water and drain. They should smell fresh and mildly earthy; throw away any batch that smells sour or off.

Step 3: Heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil in a pot and fry 3 shallots and 1 ½ cloves garlic over a medium heat for 2 minutes until golden. Add 4 ripe tomatoes and cook for 8 minutes, crushing them, until soft and pulpy.

Step 4: Pour in the stock, add 4 tbsp rice vinegar, 2 tbsp fish sauce, 1 tsp sugar and 7 oz fried tofu, and simmer for 10 minutes. Taste: it should be clearly sour, a little sweet and salty.

Step 5: In a frying pan, fry the remaining garlic and ⅔ oz ginger in a drizzle of oil for 30 seconds, add the snails and ½ tsp ground turmeric and toss for 2 minutes. Common mistake: simmering the snails for a long time; they toughen quickly.

Step 6: Tip the snails into the broth and simmer for 2–3 minutes, until piping hot throughout.

Step 7: Cook 10 ½ oz rice vermicelli following the packet and drain. Divide into bowls, ladle over broth, snails and tofu, and top with 1 handful perilla leaves, 3 spring onions and 2 red chillies.