Buñuelos colombianos

Step 1: Put 7 oz feta cheese in a bowl and mash it with a fork until it is a fine, damp crumb with no lumps.

Step 2: Add 2 ⅛ oz cassava starch (tapioca flour), 1 ⅜ oz cornflour (cornstarch), 2 tbsp sugar and ½ tsp gluten-free baking powder and rub together, then add 1 egg and knead to a smooth, soft dough. Add 2 tbsp milk a little at a time only if it cracks.

Step 3: Roll into 18 smooth balls about 4 cm across. Any cracks in the surface will split open in the oil, so roll until perfectly smooth.

Step 4: Heat 4 ¼ cups vegetable oil in a deep pan over a medium-low heat to about 300°F. Add 6 balls; they will sink.

Step 5: Fry, without turning, until they rise and start to roll over by themselves, then keep frying, raising the heat a little, until puffed and golden all over, 8–10 minutes in total. The common mistake is frying them in very hot oil from the start: they brown before they puff.

Step 6: Drain on kitchen paper and serve warm with natilla or hot chocolate.