Busiate al pesto trapanese

Step 1: Bring a large pan of water to the boil with 1 tbsp coarse salt. Cut a small cross in the base of each of 14 oz ripe cherry tomatoes, drop them into the water for 30 seconds, then lift into cold water and slip off the skins.

Step 2: Toast 2 ⅛ oz blanched almonds in a dry frying pan over a medium heat for 3–4 minutes, shaking, until pale gold and fragrant. Cool for a minute.

Step 3: Cook 12 ½ oz busiate (dried or fresh) in the boiling water until al dente: about 12–14 minutes for dried, 5–6 for fresh.

Step 4: Meanwhile pound 1 clove garlic with ½ tsp salt in a mortar (or blitz in a food processor), then add the almonds and grind to a coarse crumb. Add 1 oz basil leaves and pound to a rough green paste.

Step 5: Add the peeled tomatoes and work them in until broken down but still a little chunky. Stir in ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil, 1 ⅜ oz pecorino and ¼ tsp dried chilli flakes. The pesto should be pink-orange and loose.

Step 6: Drain the pasta, keeping a cup of the water, and tip it into a large bowl. Add the pesto and toss with a splash of pasta water until creamy. Common mistake: tossing it in the hot pan on the stove; the raw tomato cooks and the basil turns dull and flat.

Step 7: Serve straight away, or leave it 10 minutes to serve warm, as many Trapanesi prefer in summer.