Canederli agli spinaci

Step 1: Put 9 oz stale white bread in a large bowl, pour over ¾ cup whole milk, toss and leave to soak while you prepare the rest.

Step 2: Wilt 9 oz fresh spinach in a dry pan over a medium heat for 2–3 minutes, then cool it in a sieve.

Step 3: Squeeze the spinach in your fists until no more water runs out, then chop it finely. Common mistake: leaving the spinach wet; the extra water makes the dumplings fall apart in the pan.

Step 4: Melt 1 oz butter in the same pan over a medium heat and cook 1 onion for 6 minutes, until soft and lightly golden.

Step 5: Beat 2 eggs and pour them over the bread. Add the spinach, onion, 2 ⅞ oz mountain cheese such as Trentingrana or a firm alpine cheese, 1 oz Grana Padano, 2 tbsp chives, ¼ tsp ground nutmeg, ½ tsp salt and ¼ tsp black pepper and mix well with your hands.

Step 6: Sprinkle over 2 tbsp plain flour, mix again and leave for 15 minutes. The mixture should hold together when squeezed.

Step 7: With wet hands, roll it into 8 tight balls about 6 cm across, pressing firmly so there are no cracks.

Step 8: Bring 6 ¼ cups vegetable stock to a bare simmer in a wide pan. Lower in the dumplings and poach for 15 minutes without boiling, until they float and feel springy when pressed.

Step 9: Serve 2 dumplings per bowl in plenty of the hot stock, scattered with 1 tbsp chives.