Caponata

Step 1: Toss 1 ½ lb aubergines with half the ½ tsp salt and leave in a colander for 20 minutes. Pat dry.

Step 2: Blanch 3 sticks celery in boiling water for 2 minutes, then drain.

Step 3: Heat 3 tablespoons of 3 tbsp olive oil in a large frying pan over a medium-high heat. Fry the aubergine in two batches for 7–8 minutes, turning, until golden on several sides and soft inside. Set aside.

Step 4: Add the rest of 2 tbsp olive oil and fry the celery for 3 minutes until lightly golden. Add 1 red onion and cook over a medium heat for 5 minutes until soft.

Step 5: Add 14 oz chopped tomatoes, 2 ⅞ oz green olives, 2 tbsp capers and 2 tbsp pine nuts if using, with the rest of ½ tsp salt. Simmer for 8 minutes until thick.

Step 6: Stir 1 ½ tbsp sugar into ¼ cup red wine vinegar, pour into the pan and let it bubble for 1 minute; the sharp smell will soften. Return the aubergine and fold gently for 2 minutes.

Step 7: Taste: it should be both sweet and tangy. Add a little more sugar or vinegar to balance. Common mistake: serving it hot straight from the pan; it needs at least an hour to settle and taste rounded.

Step 8: Tear in 10 leaves fresh basil and leave to cool to room temperature. It keeps for 4 days in the fridge; bring back to room temperature before serving.