Carbonade valdostana

Step 1: Pat 1 ¾ lb beef chuck dry and season with 1 tsp salt and ½ tsp black pepper. Melt half the ⅔ oz butter in a heavy casserole over a medium-high heat and brown the beef in two batches until well coloured on both sides. Lift it out.

Step 2: Lower the heat to medium-low, add the rest of the ⅔ oz butter and 4 onions and cook, stirring often, until very soft and golden, about 25 minutes.

Step 3: Return the beef with any juices, sprinkle over ½ tsp ground cinnamon, ¼ tsp ground cloves and ¼ tsp nutmeg and stir for 1 minute until fragrant.

Step 4: Pour in 2 cups dry red wine, add 2 bay leaves and bring to the boil. Cover, turn the heat to very low and simmer gently, stirring every 20 minutes.

Step 5: Cook until the beef is fork-tender and the sauce is dark, thick and coats the meat, about 1 hour 45 minutes. If it gets dry add a splash of water; if it is thin at the end, uncover and simmer for 10 minutes more.

Step 6: About 45 minutes before the stew is ready, bring 5 ¼ cups water and 1 tsp salt to the boil in a large pan. Pour in 9 oz polenta (coarse cornmeal) in a thin stream, whisking all the time. Don't tip it in all at once: that is the usual reason polenta goes lumpy.

Step 7: Turn the heat to very low and cook the polenta, stirring with a wooden spoon every few minutes, until thick, smooth and pulling away from the sides of the pan, about 40 minutes. Stir in 2 ⅞ oz fontina cheese at the end if using.

Step 8: Remove the bay leaves, taste the stew for salt and serve it spooned over the hot polenta.