Chha gosht

Step 1: Mix 1 ¾ lb bone-in lamb (shoulder or leg) with 1 ½ tbsp ginger-garlic paste, ½ tsp ground turmeric, 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder and 1 ½ tsp salt. Cover and marinate in the fridge for at least 30 minutes, or up to overnight.

Step 2: Whisk 2 tbsp gram flour (besan) into 2 cups buttermilk in a bowl until completely smooth and set aside.

Step 3: Heat 4 tbsp mustard oil or vegetable oil in a heavy pot over a medium-high heat. Add 1 tsp cumin seeds, 4 green cardamom, 2 bay leaves and 3 cloves and fry for 30 seconds, until the cumin crackles.

Step 4: Add 2 onions and fry over a medium heat for 10–12 minutes, until golden brown.

Step 5: Add the marinated lamb and 2 tsp ground coriander and fry over a medium-high heat for 8–10 minutes, turning, until the meat is browned and the oil shines.

Step 6: Pour in 1 ¾ cups hot water, bring to a boil, cover and simmer over a low heat for 45–50 minutes, until the lamb is nearly tender.

Step 7: Turn the heat to its lowest. Stir the buttermilk mixture again, then pour it in slowly, stirring all the time. Common mistake: letting it boil hard straight after the buttermilk goes in; it curdles. Keep stirring in one direction until it comes to a gentle simmer.

Step 8: Simmer uncovered over a low heat for 15–20 minutes, stirring often, until the gravy is creamy, the raw gram-flour taste has gone and the lamb is tender enough to fall from the bone.

Step 9: Stir in ½ tsp garam masala, taste for salt, scatter over 2 tbsp fresh coriander and rest for 5 minutes before serving.