Chhanar dalna

Step 1: Bring 1.5 litres whole milk to the boil, turn off the heat and wait 1 minute. Stir in 4 tbsp lemon juice a spoon at a time until the milk splits into curds and clear greenish whey.

Step 2: Drain through a muslin-lined sieve, rinse with cold water to remove the lemon taste and squeeze. Hang for 20 minutes; the chhena should be moist but not dripping.

Step 3: Knead the chhena on a plate with 1 tbsp rice flour or cornflour, ¼ tsp salt and ¼ tsp ground turmeric for 4–5 minutes until smooth. Press into a 2 cm-thick square and cut into 16 cubes.

Step 4: Heat 4 tbsp mustard oil in a kadai over a medium heat and fry the chhena cubes for 3–4 minutes, turning gently, until golden. Lift out. Fry 2 medium potatoes in the same oil for 5 minutes until golden; lift out. Common mistake: frying chhena over high heat; it browns outside and cracks.

Step 5: Add 2 bay leaves, 1 tsp cumin seeds, 2 green cardamom and ¾ in cinnamon stick to the oil; when they crackle, add 1 tbsp ginger paste, 1 large tomato, ½ tsp ground turmeric, 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder, 1 tsp ground cumin, 1 tsp ground coriander, 1 tsp sugar and 1 tsp salt and cook for 5 minutes until the oil separates.

Step 6: Add the potato, 2 ⅞ oz green peas and 1 ½ cups hot water, cover and simmer for 8–10 minutes until the potato is tender.

Step 7: Slip in the chhena cubes, simmer 2–3 minutes until they swell slightly, then finish with 1 tsp ghee and ½ tsp garam masala. Serve with rice or roti.