Chicken ghee roast

Step 1: Mix 1 ⅔ lb chicken thighs and drumsticks with 3 ½ oz thick curd (yogurt), 1 tbsp lemon juice, ½ tsp ground turmeric and 1 tsp salt. Cover and marinate for 30 minutes at room temperature or up to 4 hours in the fridge.

Step 2: Dry-roast 14 dried Byadgi chillies in a heavy pan over low heat for 1-2 minutes until crisp and fragrant but not blackened. Tip out, then roast 1 ½ tbsp coriander seeds, 1 tsp cumin seeds, 1 tsp black peppercorns, ½ tsp fennel seeds and ¼ tsp fenugreek seeds for 2 minutes until a shade darker.

Step 3: Soak the chillies in ½ cup hot water for 10 minutes, then grind the chillies, roasted spices, 10 garlic cloves and 1 tbsp tamarind paste with the soaking water to a very smooth, thick red paste.

Step 4: Heat 2 tbsp of the 2 tbsp ghee in a wide, heavy pan over medium-high heat. Add the chicken with its marinade and cook for 10-12 minutes, turning, until the liquid has nearly evaporated and the pieces are mostly cooked. Lift out.

Step 5: Lower the heat to medium. Add the rest of the 3 tbsp ghee and, once it shimmers, the masala paste. Roast it, stirring constantly, for 6-8 minutes until it darkens to a deep brick red, smells roasted rather than raw, and the ghee starts to separate around the edges.

Step 6: Return the chicken and any juices, add 1 tsp jaggery and ½ tsp salt and toss well. Cook for 8-10 minutes more, stirring often, until the masala is dry and clings to the pieces and the chicken is cooked through with no pink at the bone (167°F on a thermometer).

Step 7: Fry 15 curry leaves in the pan for the last minute until they crackle, then serve hot.