Chilorio

Step 1: Put 2 ⅝ lb boneless pork shoulder, 6 ¼ cups water, 2 tsp salt and ½ white onion in a large pan. Bring to the boil, skim off any grey foam, then cover and simmer gently over a low heat.

Step 2: Cook until the pork is fork-tender and pulls apart with no resistance, about 1 hour 45 minutes. Lift the meat out and keep 250 ml of the cooking liquid.

Step 3: Meanwhile, toast 4 dried ancho chillies and 6 dried guajillo chillies in a dry frying pan over a medium heat for 20–30 seconds a side, just until they smell fragrant and turn pliable. Don't let them blacken: that is the most common mistake, and it makes the whole dish bitter.

Step 4: Soak the toasted chillies in hot water for 20 minutes until soft, then drain.

Step 5: Blend the chillies with 5 garlic, ¼ cup cider vinegar, 1 tsp ground cumin, 1 tsp dried Mexican oregano, ½ tsp ground black pepper and 150 ml of the reserved pork liquid to a smooth, thick paste. Push it through a sieve if your blender leaves bits of skin.

Step 6: Shred the pork with two forks, discarding any gristle.

Step 7: Heat 3 tbsp pork lard in a large, heavy frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add the shredded pork and fry, stirring now and then, until the edges are crisp and golden.

Step 8: Pour in the chilli paste and stir well. Lower the heat to medium and cook, stirring often, until the paste darkens to brick-red, the liquid has gone and the meat looks glossy and almost dry. Add a splash more pork liquid if it catches.

Step 9: Taste for salt and vinegar, then serve hot in flour tortillas, or cool and keep covered in the fridge for up to 4 days.