Christmas mushroom soup

Step 1: Rinse 1 ¾ oz dried porcini mushrooms and soak in 2 cups cold water for at least 1 hour, or overnight in the fridge, until soft.

Step 2: Lift the mushrooms out and squeeze them over the bowl. Let the soaking liquid settle for a few minutes, then pour it carefully into a large pan, leaving any grit behind.

Step 3: Add 6 ¼ cups water, 2 carrots, 1 parsley root or parsnip, 3 ½ oz celeriac, 1 leek, 1 onion, 2 bay leaves, 4 allspice berries and 6 black peppercorns. Bring to the boil and simmer gently, half-covered, for 40 minutes, until the vegetables are very soft.

Step 4: Slice the porcini into thin strips. Strain the broth, discarding the vegetables and spices (or slice the carrot into the soup), and return it to the pan with the mushrooms.

Step 5: Simmer for 15 minutes more, until the broth is dark and fragrant. Season with 1 ½ tsp salt and 1 tsp dried marjoram.

Step 6: Meanwhile cook 7 oz thin dried durum wheat noodles or łazanki in salted water according to the packet, until just tender, and drain.

Step 7: Put a little pasta in each bowl, ladle the hot broth and mushrooms over and scatter with 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley.