Ciabatta

Step 1: The night before, mix 7 oz strong white bread flour, ½ cup water and ¼ tsp instant dried yeast into a stiff, shaggy dough. Cover and leave at cool room temperature for 12–16 hours, until risen, domed and smelling slightly alcoholic.

Step 2: Tear the biga into pieces in a large bowl or stand mixer. Add 10 ½ oz strong white bread flour, ⅛ oz instant dried yeast and all but 40 ml of 1 ¼ cups water and mix for 3 minutes into a sticky dough.

Step 3: Add ⅜ oz salt and mix on medium speed (or slap and fold by hand) for 5 minutes. Drizzle in the remaining water a little at a time, then 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, and mix until the dough is glossy and pulls away from the bowl in long strands.

Step 4: Scrape into an oiled tub. Over the next 2 hours, give it four sets of folds 30 minutes apart, stretching each side up and over with wet hands. Then leave it for 1 hour more, until wobbly, at least doubled and full of bubbles.

Step 5: Dust the worktop and a linen cloth generously with 1 ¾ oz plain flour or fine semolina. Tip the dough out gently, flour the top and stretch it into a rough 25 × 30 cm rectangle without knocking out the air.

Step 6: Cut it into 4 strips with a floured scraper. Flip each strip over onto the floured cloth, pushing the sides in slightly to tidy the slipper shape. Prove for 30–40 minutes, until puffy.

Step 7: Meanwhile heat the oven to 475°F (425°F fan) with a baking stone or heavy tray inside and an empty tin on the bottom shelf.

Step 8: Move the loaves onto baking paper and slide them onto the hot stone. Pour a cup of boiling water into the bottom tin and bake for 20–25 minutes, until the crust is deep golden under its flour, the base sounds hollow and the centre reads 205°F.

Step 9: Cool on a rack for at least 30 minutes so the crumb sets. Best on the day, or split and toasted the next.