Cochinita pibil

Step 1: Crumble 3 ½ oz achiote (annatto) paste into a bowl and mash it with 1 cup bitter (Seville) orange juice until smooth, then stir in 5 cloves garlic, ½ tsp ground cumin, 1 tsp dried Mexican oregano, ½ tsp ground allspice, ½ tsp ground black pepper and 2 tsp salt. Achiote stains everything, so use a glass or steel bowl.

Step 2: Turn 3 ½ lb boneless pork shoulder in the marinade until every piece is coated. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, ideally overnight. Common mistake: skipping the long marinade. The sour juice needs time to flavour and soften the meat.

Step 3: Make the pickled onions: pour boiling water over 2 red onions, leave 1 minute and drain. Toss with ½ cup lime juice (or bitter orange juice), 1 tsp salt, ½ tsp dried Mexican oregano and 1 habanero chilli if using. Chill for at least 1 hour; they turn bright pink.

Step 4: Heat the oven to 325°F (275°F fan). Pass each 3 large banana leaves quickly over a gas flame or through hot water until it turns glossy and pliable, so it doesn't crack.

Step 5: Line a deep roasting dish or casserole with the leaves, overlapping and hanging over the sides. Pour in the pork and all the marinade, fold the leaves over to make a parcel, and cover tightly with foil or a lid.

Step 6: Roast for 3½–4 hours, until the pork falls apart when pressed with a fork. If it resists, give it another 30 minutes.

Step 7: Open the parcel carefully (hot steam) and let the pork rest for 15 minutes in its juices. Shred it with two forks right in the dish and stir it round so it soaks up the red juices.

Step 8: Pile the pork into 16 warm corn tortillas with the pickled onions. Leftovers keep for 3 days in the fridge; reheat covered until piping hot.