Coda alla vaccinara

Step 1: Rinse 4 lb oxtail, pat it very dry and season with 1 ½ tsp salt.

Step 2: Heat 3 tbsp olive oil in a heavy casserole over a medium-high heat. Brown the oxtail in batches on all sides until deep brown. Don't crowd the pot: that's the usual reason the meat steams grey instead of browning.

Step 3: Lower the heat to medium, add 1 onion, 1 carrot, 2 garlic cloves and 3 whole cloves to the fat and cook until soft and golden.

Step 4: Return the oxtail, pour in ¾ cup dry red wine and let it bubble until reduced by half.

Step 5: Add 3 cups tomato passata and 2 cups hot water, bring to a simmer, cover and cook over the lowest heat, turning the pieces now and then and adding a splash of water if it gets too thick. It's ready when the meat is fork-tender and comes away from the bone with no effort.

Step 6: Meanwhile blanch 6 celery sticks in boiling salted water until just tender, then drain.

Step 7: Skim off as much fat as you can from the surface. Stir in the celery, drained 1 oz raisins, 1 oz pine nuts, 1 tsp unsweetened cocoa powder and ½ tsp black pepper and simmer uncovered until the sauce is thick enough to coat a spoon.

Step 8: Taste for salt and serve hot, with bread to mop the sauce.