Conchas

Step 1: Stir ¼ oz fast-action dried yeast and a pinch of the 2 ⅞ oz caster sugar into ¾ cup whole milk and leave for 5–10 minutes, until foamy. If nothing happens, the yeast is dead or the milk was too hot; start again.

Step 2: In a stand mixer with the dough hook (or a large bowl), mix 1 ⅛ lb strong white bread flour, the rest of the sugar, 1 tsp salt and ½ tsp ground cinnamon. Add the yeast mixture, 2 eggs and 1 tsp vanilla extract and mix on low for 3–4 minutes into a shaggy, sticky dough.

Step 3: Add 2 ⅞ oz unsalted butter a spoonful at a time, letting each piece disappear before the next. Knead on medium for 8–10 minutes (15 by hand), until the dough is smooth, glossy and stretches into a thin see-through sheet without tearing. It will feel soft and a little tacky; resist adding more flour.

Step 4: Shape into a ball, put in a bowl greased with 1 tsp vegetable oil, cover and leave in a warm place for 1–1½ hours, until doubled.

Step 5: Meanwhile make the topping: rub or beat 3 ½ oz plain flour, 3 ½ oz icing sugar, 2 ⅞ oz unsalted butter and ½ tsp vanilla extract into a smooth paste, like soft play dough. Divide in half and knead 1 tbsp cocoa powder into one half. Wrap and keep at room temperature.

Step 6: Knock back the dough and divide into 12 equal pieces (about 75 g each). Shape each into a tight ball: fold the edges into the middle, flip seam side down, and roll it under a cupped hand on an unfloured worktop until the surface is taut.

Step 7: Set the balls 6 cm apart on two lined baking trays and flatten each slightly with your palm. Brush the tops lightly with 1 egg or water so the topping sticks.

Step 8: Divide each colour of topping into 6 balls. Press each between two pieces of baking paper (or in a tortilla press) into a 9 cm disc about 3 mm thick, and lay it on a bun, pressing gently so it covers the top.

Step 9: Score a shell pattern into the topping with a sharp knife or concha cutter: curved lines fanning from one point, cutting through the topping but not into the dough.

Step 10: Cover loosely and prove for 45–60 minutes, until the buns are puffy and the scored lines have opened into wide cracks. Heat the oven to 350°F (325°F fan) for the last 15 minutes.

Step 11: Bake for 18–20 minutes, swapping the trays halfway, until the sides are pale golden and the buns sound hollow underneath. The topping should stay pale; if it starts browning, lower the heat by 50°F.

Step 12: Cool on a rack for 15 minutes. They are best the same day; keep leftovers in an airtight tin and warm for a few minutes in the oven.