Datemaki (sweet rolled omelette)

Step 1: Heat the oven to 375°F (350°F fan). Line a 20 x 20 cm square tin with baking paper and brush it with 1 tsp neutral oil.

Step 2: Blend 3 ½ oz hanpen or white fish paste (surimi) with 3 tbsp sugar, 1 tbsp honey, 1 tbsp mirin, 1 tsp light soy sauce (usukuchi) and 1 pinch salt until completely smooth, then add 5 eggs one at a time and blend for 1 minute until the batter is pale and silky with no lumps.

Step 3: Pour into the tin, tap it on the worktop to burst big bubbles and bake for 18–22 minutes, until the top is deep golden brown, the centre springs back when pressed and a skewer comes out clean. The egg must be fully set.

Step 4: Turn the omelette out browned side down onto an oni-sudare (thick bamboo mat) or a sushi mat, peel off the paper and make 3–4 shallow cuts across the pale side near the end where you start rolling, so it curls easily.

Step 5: Roll it up tightly in the mat from the cut end while warm, pressing firmly. Common mistake: waiting until it has cooled; the omelette becomes stiff and splits instead of rolling.

Step 6: Secure the mat with rubber bands and leave it seam-side down until cool, about 15 minutes, then wrap in cling film and chill for at least 1 hour to set the spiral.

Step 7: Unroll, slice into 1.5–2 cm rounds with a sharp knife and serve cold. It keeps 3 days in the fridge. For a variation without fish, use 100 g firm tofu, pressed and patted dry, instead of the hanpen.