Fish and chips

Step 1: Rinse 2 ¼ lb floury potatoes (Maris Piper or King Edward) in cold water to wash off surface starch, then dry very well on a clean towel.

Step 2: Heat 8 ¼ cups vegetable oil for deep-frying in a large, deep, heavy pan (no more than a third full) or a deep fryer to 275°F. Fry the chips in 2 batches for 7–8 minutes until soft but still pale. Lift out and drain. Never leave the hot oil unattended, keep the pan handle turned in and keep a lid and a damp tea towel close; never use water on an oil fire.

Step 3: Simmer 14 oz frozen marrowfat or garden peas in a little water for 5 minutes, drain, then crush roughly with ⅔ oz butter, 1 tbsp fresh mint and a pinch of salt. Keep warm.

Step 4: Whisk 7 oz plain flour, 1 tsp baking powder and 1 tsp salt in a bowl, then whisk in cold 1 ¼ cups very cold lager or pale ale (or sparkling water) until just smooth, like thick cream. A few lumps are fine; a common mistake is overmixing, which makes the batter heavy.

Step 5: Raise the oil to 350°F. Pat 4 thick skinless cod or haddock fillets completely dry, dust in 2 tbsp plain flour, then dip in the batter, letting the excess drip off. Lower each piece into the oil away from you, laying it down slowly so it floats and does not stick. Fry 2 at a time for 5–7 minutes, turning once, until deep golden and the fish inside is opaque and flakes easily. Drain on a rack and keep warm in a 200°F oven.

Step 6: Bring the oil back to 350°F and fry the chips again for 2–3 minutes until crisp and golden. Drain and salt straight away. Serve with the fish, crushed peas, 1 lemon and 2 tbsp malt vinegar. Let the oil cool completely before moving the pan.