Frijoles charros

Step 1: Drain the soaked 1 ⅛ lb dried pinto beans, rinse them and put them in a large pot with 10 ½ cups water, ½ white onion and 2 cloves garlic. Bring to a full boil over a high heat and boil for 10 minutes, then lower the heat.

Step 2: Simmer, partly covered, for 1½–2 hours, until the beans are creamy right through when you squash one against the roof of your mouth. Top up with boiling water (not cold, which can make the skins split) so they stay covered. Add 2 tsp salt in the last 20 minutes.

Step 3: While the beans cook, fry 7 oz smoked streaky bacon in a large frying pan over a medium heat for 6–8 minutes, until browned and most of its fat has melted out.

Step 4: Add 5 ½ oz raw Mexican chorizo and fry for 5 minutes, breaking it up, until it is cooked through with no pink left and the fat runs red. Add 2 frankfurters now if using.

Step 5: Add 1 white onion, 2 cloves garlic and 2 jalapeño or serrano chillies and cook for 5 minutes, until soft. Add 3 ripe tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes more, until they break down into a thick sauce.

Step 6: Once the beans are soft, discard the onion half and tip the meat and tomato mixture into the pot. Common mistake: adding the tomato while the beans are still firm. The acid sets the skins and they may never soften.

Step 7: Simmer gently for 20–25 minutes, stirring now and then, until the broth tastes rich and smoky and is lightly thickened but still soupy. Taste for salt.

Step 8: Stir in 1 small bunch fresh coriander just before serving in small bowls alongside grilled meat. Keeps for 4 days in the fridge; reheat until piping hot.