Frittola

Step 1: Put 2 ⅝ lb veal breast or brisket with cartilage, 1 onion and 1 tbsp coarse salt in a large pan, cover with cold water and bring to the boil, skimming off the grey foam.

Step 2: Simmer gently, partly covered, for 2 hours, until the cartilage is soft and the meat falls apart under a fork.

Step 3: Drain, discard the onion and spread the meat on a tray to cool and dry for 15 minutes. Pull or chop it into small, irregular pieces, keeping the soft cartilage and some fat.

Step 4: Melt 4 oz pork lard in a wide, heavy pan over a medium-low heat, add 4 bay leaves and let it sizzle for 1 minute.

Step 5: Add the meat and fry for 15–20 minutes, stirring now and then, until it is hot through and golden and crisp at the edges. Season with 1 tsp black pepper. Common mistake: frying on a high heat; the pieces burn outside before the fat renders and turns tender.

Step 6: Tip into a cloth-lined basket or warm bowl and cover to keep warm. Serve on paper or in 6 soft sesame rolls with 2 lemons to squeeze over.