Gaeng hang lay

Step 1: Drain the 6 dried long red chillies and pound them with the ½ tsp salt, then add 2 stalks lemongrass, ½ oz galangal, 5 shallots, 8 cloves garlic and 1 tsp shrimp paste and pound (or blend with a splash of water) to a smooth paste.

Step 2: On a board kept for raw meat, toss 1 ⅓ lb pork belly and 14 oz pork shoulder with the paste, 1 tsp ground coriander, ½ tsp ground cumin, 1 tsp ground turmeric, ¼ tsp ground cinnamon and 1 tsp mild chilli powder in a bowl. Cover and marinate in the fridge for at least 30 minutes, or overnight.

Step 3: Heat 1 tbsp vegetable oil in a heavy pot over a medium-high heat and add the pork with all its marinade. Stir and fry for 6–8 minutes until the meat has lost its raw colour and the paste smells toasted and starts to catch.

Step 4: Pour in 3 ¼ cups water, scrape up the base and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to low, cover and simmer very gently for 1 hour. Don't let it boil hard: a rolling boil makes the meat tough and the sauce cloudy.

Step 5: Add 2 ⅛ oz fresh ginger, 10 cloves garlic, 3 tbsp tamarind paste, 2 tbsp palm sugar and 2 tbsp fish sauce. Simmer uncovered for 30 minutes more, stirring now and then, until the pork is fork-tender (well past the safe 145°F / 145 °F) and the sauce has reduced to a thick, glossy gravy.

Step 6: Taste and balance: it should be rich and savoury, with sourness and sweetness in step. Add a little more tamarind or sugar if needed. If the sauce is still thin, boil it uncovered for a few minutes.

Step 7: Rest off the heat for 10 minutes, skim off some of the fat, then scatter with peanuts and pickled garlic and serve with rice.