Gai yang

Step 1: Pound 1 tsp white peppercorns and ½ tsp salt in a mortar, then add 4 coriander roots, 8 cloves garlic and 3 stalks lemongrass and pound to a coarse, fragrant paste (about 5 minutes).

Step 2: Stir in 3 tbsp fish sauce, 1 ½ tbsp palm sugar, ½ tsp ground turmeric and 1 tbsp vegetable oil until the sugar dissolves.

Step 3: On a board kept for raw poultry, cut two deep slashes in each piece of 3 ⅓ lb bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks down to the bone. Rub the marinade all over and into the cuts, then wash the board, knife and your hands.

Step 4: Cover and marinate in the fridge, never on the counter, for at least 4 hours and up to 24.

Step 5: Light a charcoal grill and let it burn down to medium coals, banked to one side; or heat the oven to 400°F (350°F fan). Scrape most of the marinade off the chicken so it doesn't burn.

Step 6: Grill the chicken skin-side up over the cooler side, lid on, turning every 8–10 minutes, for 30–35 minutes. The sugar in the marinade burns quickly, so a common mistake is cooking straight over hot coals: the outside goes black while the bone is still raw. In the oven, roast on a rack for 35–40 minutes.

Step 7: Move the pieces over the hot side for the last 3–5 minutes, turning, to blister and char the skin in spots.

Step 8: Check the thickest piece next to the bone: it must read 165°F (165 °F) and the juices must run clear, not pink. Give any piece that isn't there a few more minutes.

Step 9: Rest the chicken on a clean board (not the raw one) for 5–10 minutes.

Step 10: Meanwhile, stir 2 tbsp fish sauce, 2 tbsp lime juice, 1 tsp dried chilli flakes, 1 tsp toasted rice powder, ½ tsp palm sugar and 1 shallot together in a small bowl, adding coriander if you like. Serve with the chicken and sticky rice.