Gheymeh

Step 1: Soak 4 oz yellow split peas in cold water for 1 hour, then drain. Pierce 3 dried limes (limoo omani) a few times with a knife and soak them in a cup of hot water for 10 minutes.

Step 2: Heat 3 tbsp vegetable oil in a heavy pot over a medium heat and fry 2 onions for 10 minutes until golden. Stir in 1 tsp ground turmeric for 30 seconds.

Step 3: Turn the heat up, add 1 ⅓ lb boneless lamb shoulder and fry for 6–8 minutes, turning, until browned on all sides. Add ½ tsp ground cinnamon, ½ tsp black pepper and 2 tbsp tomato purée and fry for 2 minutes until the paste darkens a shade.

Step 4: Pour in 3 ¾ cups hot water, bring to the boil, then cover and simmer over a low heat for 45 minutes.

Step 5: Add the drained split peas, the limes and their soaking water. Simmer, covered, for 40–50 minutes more, until the lamb is tender and the peas are soft but still whole. A common mistake is adding the peas at the start: they turn to mush long before the lamb is ready.

Step 6: Season with 1 ½ tsp salt (adding it late keeps the peas from staying hard) and stir in 2 tbsp saffron water. Press the limes against the side of the pot to release their juice; taste and simmer uncovered for a few minutes if the sauce is thin. The lamb is ready when it breaks with a spoon.

Step 7: Meanwhile cut 14 oz potatoes into thin matchsticks, rinse well in cold water and dry thoroughly on a towel.

Step 8: Heat 2 cups vegetable oil for frying in a deep pan to 350°F (a matchstick sizzles fast). Fry the potatoes in 2–3 batches for 4–5 minutes until golden and crisp. Never leave hot oil unattended. Drain on kitchen paper and sprinkle with ½ tsp salt.

Step 9: Serve the stew in a warm dish with the potato straws piled on top at the last moment so they stay crunchy, with chelow rice alongside. Cool leftovers quickly and refrigerate within 2 hours; reheat until bubbling.