Ghugni chura

Step 1: Drain 7 oz kala chana (small black chickpeas) and pressure-cook with 3 ¼ cups water and ½ tsp salt for 6–7 whistles (about 25 minutes), or simmer in a covered pan for 1–1½ hours, until soft enough to crush between your fingers. Keep the cooking water.

Step 2: Heat 3 tbsp mustard oil in a kadai on high until it smokes lightly, then turn to medium. Add 1 bay leaf and 1 tsp cumin seeds; when the cumin crackles, add 2 onions and fry for 10–12 minutes until a deep reddish-brown. Under-browned onions are the usual mistake: the colour and sweetness of ghugni come from them.

Step 3: Stir in 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste and 2 green chillies for a minute, then add 1 tomato, ½ tsp ground turmeric, 1 tsp red chilli powder, 1 ½ tsp ground coriander and ¾ tsp salt. Cook for 5 minutes, adding a splash of the chana water if it sticks, until the tomato melts and oil separates.

Step 4: Add the chana and about 250 ml of their cooking water. Simmer on medium-low for 8–10 minutes, lightly mashing a few chickpeas against the pan, until thick enough to coat a spoon. Sprinkle in ½ tsp garam masala.

Step 5: Meanwhile, heat 1 ½ tbsp mustard oil in a frying pan on medium-low. Add 5 ½ oz thick poha (flattened rice, chura) and ¼ tsp salt and stir for 5–6 minutes until the flakes turn crisp, pale gold and rustle against the spoon.

Step 6: Serve the ghugni hot in bowls with a heap of chura on the side, topped with 1 red onion, ⅓ oz fresh coriander and a squeeze of 1 lemon.