Gogi guksu

Step 1: Soak 2 ¼ lb pork back or neck bones and 1 pork trotter in cold water for 30 minutes to draw out the blood, then drain.

Step 2: Cover the bones with fresh water in a large stockpot, bring to the boil and boil for 10 minutes. Drain, rinse each piece well under running water and clean the pot.

Step 3: Return the bones to the pot with 16 ¾ cups water and bring to a hard boil over a high heat. Partly cover and boil steadily for 1 hour, topping up with boiling water if the bones poke out.

Step 4: Add 1 ⅛ lb boneless pork belly or shoulder, 1 onion, 7 oz Korean radish or mooli, 8 cloves garlic, ⅔ oz ginger and 3 spring onion whites. Boil steadily for 1 hour more, until the pork is very tender when pierced with a skewer and the broth is cloudy.

Step 5: Lift out the pork belly, wrap it in foil and leave it for 10 minutes; it slices more neatly once rested. Strain the broth, discard the bones and vegetables, and skim off some of the fat (leave a little for richness). You need about 1.8 litres.

Step 6: Season the broth with 1 tbsp Korean soup soy sauce (guk-ganjang) and 1 ½ tsp salt and keep it hot over a low heat. Cut the pork into slices about 5 mm thick.

Step 7: Cook 14 oz thick dried wheat noodles (jungmyeon) in a separate large pan of boiling water following the packet, usually 5 to 6 minutes for dried, stirring at first.

Step 8: Common mistake: cooking the noodles in the broth. Their starch makes the broth thick and murky. Drain them, rinse under cold water and rub off the starch, so they're firm and springy.

Step 9: Put a portion of noodles in a sieve and dip it into the hot broth for 20 seconds, then tip into a deep bowl. Repeat for each bowl.

Step 10: Lay the pork slices over the noodles and ladle over the boiling broth. Top with 3 spring onions, a pinch of 2 tsp Korean chilli flakes (gochugaru), 1 sheet roasted seaweed (gim), 2 tsp toasted sesame seeds and ½ tsp black pepper, and serve with kimchi on the side.

Step 11: Cool leftover broth quickly and refrigerate it within 2 hours; it keeps for 3 days, or 3 months frozen.