Grand aïoli

Step 1: Put 1 ¾ lb salt cod in a large bowl of cold water, cover and soak in the fridge for 24–36 hours, changing the water 3–4 times, until a flake tastes only pleasantly salty.

Step 2: Make the aïoli: pound 6 garlic cloves with ½ tsp coarse salt in a mortar until it is a smooth paste. Add 2 egg yolks and stir until pale.

Step 3: Add 1 ¼ cups mild extra virgin olive oil drop by drop at first, stirring constantly in one direction, then in a thin stream once the sauce thickens. Don't rush the oil: that is the usual reason aïoli splits. If it does, start again with a fresh yolk and beat the split sauce into it slowly. Stir in 1 tsp lemon juice, cover and chill.

Step 4: Boil 2 ¼ lb waxy potatoes in salted water for 20 minutes, until a knife slides in easily. Cook 6 carrots in the same way for 12–15 minutes and 14 oz green beans for 4–5 minutes, until tender but still bright.

Step 5: Lower 6 eggs into boiling water and cook for 10 minutes, then cool in cold water and peel. The yolks should be firm right through.

Step 6: Drain the cod and put it in a wide pan with 1 bay leaf and fresh cold water to cover. Bring slowly to a bare simmer and poach for 8–10 minutes, until the flesh is opaque and flakes easily. Drain and break into large flakes, removing skin and bones.

Step 7: Arrange the warm cod, vegetables, 3 cooked beetroot and halved eggs on a large platter, with the cauliflower and chickpeas if using. Serve with the aïoli in the middle for everyone to help themselves.