Gujeolpan

Step 1: Whisk 3 ½ oz plain flour, ¾ cup water and ¼ tsp salt until smooth and leave to rest for 20 minutes; the batter should coat a spoon thinly, like single cream. If using ⅔ oz spinach, stir it into a third of the batter for green crêpes.

Step 2: Sprinkle the 1 cucumber, 1 carrot and 4 oz Korean radish (mu) or daikon with a pinch each of 1 tsp salt and leave for 10 minutes, then squeeze out the water.

Step 3: Heat a large non-stick pan over a low-medium heat and wipe with a little 3 tbsp neutral oil. Stir-fry the cucumber for 30 seconds, just until it turns brighter green, and spread it on a plate to cool. Repeat with the carrot, radish and 1 red pepper separately, a minute each, wiping the pan with oil between them.

Step 4: Toss 6 dried shiitake mushrooms and ⅓ oz dried wood ear mushrooms with 1 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tsp sugar and half the 2 tsp toasted sesame oil, then stir-fry for 2–3 minutes until the soy is absorbed and the shiitake look glossy and dark.

Step 5: Blanch 4 oz mung bean sprouts in boiling salted water for 1 minute, drain, cool and season with the rest of the sesame oil and a pinch of salt.

Step 6: Beat the yolks and whites from 3 eggs separately with a pinch of salt. Cook each as a thin sheet in the lightly oiled pan over a low heat until set but still pale, 1–2 minutes, then cut into fine 5 cm strips.

Step 7: For the crêpes, wipe the pan with oil and keep it on a low heat. Drop in 1 tablespoon of batter and spread it with the back of the spoon into a 7–8 cm round. Cook for 30–40 seconds until the edges lift and the top turns from shiny to matt, flip for 10 seconds, and stack on a plate. They should stay pale; brown spots mean the pan is too hot.

Step 8: Mix 1 tsp Korean or English mustard, 1 tbsp rice vinegar, 1 tsp sugar, 1 tsp soy sauce and 1 tbsp water for the dip.

Step 9: Arrange the eight fillings in separate piles around a plate or tray with the crêpe stack in the centre, alternating the colours. To eat, lay a little of several fillings on a crêpe, roll it up and dip it. A common mistake is mixing the fillings or cooking them together, which muddies both the colours and the separate flavours the platter is about.