Hae bee hiam rolls (spicy prawn rolls)

Step 1: Pulse 5 ½ oz dried shrimp in a food processor until finely shredded and fluffy, then tip it out.

Step 2: Blend 15 dried red chillies, 8 shallots, 4 cloves garlic, 2 stalks lemongrass and 3 candlenuts or macadamia nuts with 2 tbsp water to a fine paste.

Step 3: Heat ¼ cup neutral oil in a wok over a medium-low heat and fry the spice paste, stirring often, for 12–15 minutes, until it darkens to brick red, smells sweet and the oil separates.

Step 4: Add the shrimp, 2 tbsp sugar and ½ tsp salt and keep stirring over a low heat for 25–30 minutes, until the sambal is dry, crumbly and looks like floss. Common mistake: stopping when it still feels damp; the rolls then go soft.

Step 5: Spread the sambal on a tray and leave to cool completely, about 20 minutes.

Step 6: Lay a square of 20 spring roll pastry sheets with one corner towards you, put 1 heaped tsp of sambal along the near edge, roll it up tightly into a thin stick, tucking in the sides halfway, and seal the end with a dab of 1 tbsp plain flour paste. Keep the rest of the pastry under a damp cloth.

Step 7: Heat 4 ¼ cups neutral oil in a deep pan to 325°F. Fry the rolls in batches for 2–3 minutes, turning, until evenly golden and the bubbling slows.

Step 8: Drain on kitchen paper and cool completely, until crisp all through. Store in an airtight jar for up to 2 weeks.