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Jaffna goat curry

ஆட்டுக்கறி (aattukkari): goat on the bone in a thick, very spicy Jaffna curry-powder gravy with potato

Goat is the celebration meat of the Tamil north, and a Jaffna aattukkari cooked for a temple feast day, a wedding lunch or a Sunday at home is thick, brick-red and ferociously spicy. The secret is the local curry powder, roasted much darker and hotter than in the south, fried in oil with onion, garlic and fennel until it almost catches, then simmered slowly with the meat until the gravy reduces to a coating. Chunks of potato soak up the sauce, and the whole thing is eaten with rice, idiyappam or Jaffna-style puttu, with a cooling bowl of curd or coconut sambol on the side. The pitfall here is rushing the simmer; goat needs patience and goes chewy if it is cooked hard and fast. Chef's tip: brown the meat well in the spice paste before any liquid goes in, which gives the gravy its deep, almost smoky flavour.
Total time
120 min
Difficulty
medium
Serves
6
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Ingredients

Serves6

For the goat

For the curry

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Fresh ingredients (7)

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Method

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  1. Step 1: Rub 2 ¼ lb goat or mutton on the bone with 1 /2 tsp ground turmeric, 1 ½ tsp salt and 1 tbsp white vinegar and leave in the fridge for 20 minutes while you prepare everything else.

    2 min
  2. Step 2: Heat 4 tbsp vegetable or sesame oil in a heavy pot over a medium heat, add 5 cm piece cinnamon stick, 1 tsp fennel seeds and 2 sprigs curry leaves and fry for 30 seconds.

    1 min
  3. Step 3: Add 3 red onions and cook for 8–10 minutes until well browned.

    10 min
  4. Step 4: Add 8 cloves garlic and 4 cm piece fresh ginger and fry for 2 minutes.

    2 min
  5. Step 5: Stir in 4 tbsp Jaffna curry powder and fry for 1 minute until it darkens and smells toasty; add a splash of water if it starts to stick.

    2 min
  6. Step 6: Add the goat and stir over a medium-high heat for 8 minutes until the meat is browned and coated in the paste.

    8 min
  7. Step 7: Add 2 tomatoes and cook for 3–4 minutes until soft, then pour in 3 cups hot water and bring to the boil.

    4 min
  8. Step 8: Cover, lower the heat and simmer for about 1 hour, stirring every 15 minutes.

    60 min
  9. Step 9: Add 2 potatoes and simmer, covered, for 20–25 minutes more until the goat is tender enough to pull from the bone and the potatoes are soft.

    25 min
  10. Step 10: Stir in ¾ cup coconut milk and ⅓ oz tamarind pulp and cook uncovered for 5 minutes until the gravy is thick and clings to the meat. Taste for salt and rest 10 minutes before serving.

    5 min

Nutrition per serving

Calories
420 kcal
Protein
34 g
Carbs
16 g
Fat
24 g
Fibre
4 g

Nutrition values are estimates.

K
Recipe by

KrazyBadal

All recipes by this chef →

Good to know

How long does jaffna goat curry take?
About 120 minutes in total: 20 minutes to prepare and 100 minutes to cook.
How many people does it serve?
6 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
Is it gluten free?
Yes, as written. Check the labels on stock, sauces and spice mixes, which sometimes contain gluten.
Is it very spicy?
It has some heat. Use less chilli for a milder version, or more if you like it hot.
What can I use instead of ground turmeric?
Leave it out (it mostly adds colour).
What can I use instead of white vinegar?
Cider vinegar or rice vinegar, same amount.

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