Jamnagari ghughra

Step 1: Rub 3 tbsp sunflower oil and ½ tsp salt into 9 oz plain flour (maida) until it holds when squeezed, then add ½ cup water a little at a time to make a firm, smooth dough. Cover and rest 20 minutes.

Step 2: Heat 1 tbsp sunflower oil in a pan, add 1 tsp cumin seeds and let it sizzle, then add 1 tbsp ginger-green chilli paste and 5 ½ oz green peas and cook for 3 minutes.

Step 3: Add 14 oz potatoes, 1 tsp garam masala, 2 tsp sugar and 1 tsp salt and mix over low heat for 2 minutes. Off the heat add 1 tbsp lemon juice and 3 tbsp fresh coriander. Cool completely.

Step 4: Divide the dough into 24 balls and roll each to a thin 9 cm round. Put a spoonful of filling on one half, wet the edge, fold over and press, then pleat and twist the edge tightly all round.

Step 5: Pour 4 ¼ cups sunflower oil into a heavy kadai so it is no more than a third full and heat to 325°F; a small piece of dough should sink and rise slowly in about 5 seconds. Never leave the oil unattended.

Step 6: Fry 6 at a time for 6–7 minutes, turning, until evenly golden with tiny blisters and the crimped edge is crisp too. Drain.

Step 7: To serve, split each ghughra open on a plate and spoon over 3 ½ oz green coriander chutney, 3 ½ oz sweet date-tamarind chutney and a little 3 tbsp red garlic chutney. Finish with 1 ¾ oz fine sev and 1 tsp chaat masala.