Jben (fresh Moroccan cheese)

Step 1: Pour 8 ¼ cups pasteurised whole goat's or cow's milk into a large, very clean stainless steel pan and warm it gently over a low heat, stirring, to 35–99°F (comfortably warm on your wrist). Use a thermometer if you have one; milk much hotter than 104°F weakens the rennet, which is the usual reason home jben stays soft and runny.

Step 2: Take the pan off the heat and whisk in 2 tbsp plain yogurt with live cultures. Cover and leave for 30 minutes so the cultures start to work.

Step 3: Stir ¼ tsp liquid vegetarian rennet into 3 ½ tbsp cool boiled water, then pour it into the milk and stir slowly up and down for 30 seconds. Stop stirring, cover with a lid and a tea towel and leave undisturbed in a warm spot for 1–2 hours.

Step 4: Check the set: push a clean finger into the curd at an angle and lift. It is ready when it breaks cleanly around your finger with clear, yellowish whey filling the gap. If it is still milky and soft, give it another 30 minutes.

Step 5: Cut the curd into roughly 2 cm cubes with a long knife and leave for 10 minutes to let the whey start to separate.

Step 6: Line a colander with a double layer of damp, boiled muslin or cheesecloth and set it over a bowl. Ladle in the curds gently.

Step 7: Sprinkle with 1 tsp fine salt, fold the cloth over and leave to drain in the fridge for 4–6 hours, until firm enough to hold its shape but still moist. For a rounder shape, spoon the curds into small cheese baskets instead.

Step 8: Turn the jben out onto a plate. Serve chilled with 2 tbsp olive oil and 1 tsp dried thyme or za'atar, bread and olives. Keep covered in the fridge and eat within 4 days.