Jeow mak keua

Step 1: Thread 5 garlic cloves and 3 shallots onto a skewer. Lay 3 long Asian aubergines, 3 long green chillies and the skewer directly over a gas flame, a hot grill or charcoal.

Step 2: Char the chillies, garlic and shallots for 5–6 minutes, turning, until blistered and soft, and set aside. Keep turning the aubergines for 15–20 minutes, until the skins are black all over and they slump completely when pressed.

Step 3: Rest the aubergines in a bowl for 5 minutes, then peel off the skin with damp fingers. Don't rinse them; a few black flecks are welcome.

Step 4: Peel the garlic and shallots and remove the chilli stems. Pound them in a mortar with ½ tsp salt for 2 minutes, to a coarse paste.

Step 5: Add the aubergine flesh and pound gently, scraping and turning, for a minute or two, until it is creamy but still has some strands. Over-pounding turns it to watery purée.

Step 6: Season with 1 tsp tamari and 1 tsp lime juice, taste for salt and heat, then stir in 1 small handful fresh coriander and 1 spring onion. Serve warm or at room temperature with sticky rice and raw vegetables.