Jiufen taro balls

Step 1: Steam 7 oz taro and 7 oz orange sweet potato in separate heaps over boiling water on a high heat for 15–20 minutes, until a knife slides through with no resistance.

Step 2: Mash the hot taro with 1 oz sugar until smooth. Add 4 oz tapioca starch a little at a time and knead to a soft dough that doesn't stick. If it cracks, add a teaspoon of hot water; if it's sticky, a little more starch. Do the same with the sweet potato, ⅔ oz sugar and 3 ⅞ oz tapioca starch.

Step 3: Roll each dough into ropes 1.5 cm thick, cut into 2 cm pieces and toss in a little extra starch so they don't stick. Freeze any you won't cook today on a tray, then bag them.

Step 4: Simmer 2 ⅞ oz brown sugar in 400 ml of the 1 ¾ cups water over a medium heat for 5 minutes and keep it warm.

Step 5: Bring the rest of 1 ¼ cups water plus 1.5 litres more to a rolling boil. Drop in the balls and stir once. When they float, cook for 2 minutes more, until they look slightly glossy and are chewy all the way through. Common mistake: lifting them out as soon as they float; the centres are still floury and hard.

Step 6: Scoop the balls into a bowl of cold water for 30 seconds to firm up the chew, then drain into serving bowls. Ladle over the warm syrup and add 4 oz sweetened red beans if you like, or serve over shaved ice with the syrup cooled.